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Tie Stalls---again!
Posted by Jerry Hicks at 2015-07-29 09:42:58
I'm curious about what other folks use to floor their tie stalls. I dug mine up and laid drain tiles then put a 18 inches of gravel over that, and a foot of packed clay, but The mules have worked deep ruts in front and in various other parts of the stall. I've tried hauling more clay and tamping it in to fill the holes. I've now got rubber stall mats over the clay and that helped, for a couple of years. But now they've gotten sunken places in the mats and clay where their feet are normally places. I've been thinking about oak flooring, slanting back to the manure pits, but not sure how to deal with the termite problem. On my farm at least, they eat any wood that is less than 18 inches from the ground. I've even had them come up and eat cardboard or feed sacks that were used temporarily to put things on. So, I've got a bit of a dilemma.
Response by NoraWI at 2015-07-29 21:09:18
I've used shale or screenings. I don't think you can keep any flooring from rutting. With shale or screenings you just top off to cover the damage. Quite easy. I have seen sand being used but am not sure if that would be any better. At least shale and screenings harden up with use.
Response by Mptclinics in IL at 2015-07-29 21:15:37
We use the plastic equi-tiles in our stalls, and have had so much success with them that we plan to use them in our tie stalls and paddock shelters. There are several versions. Ours is the plastic tongue and groove rectangular tiles, with roughly 2" holes evenly spaced. I'd be happy to send more info if interested. The key is to build a solid edge for it--be it a concrete or wood wall or just frame around the floor area, which then holds the tongue and groove pieces tightly in place. Make the floor even with whatever well-drained base you choose, lay the tiles, and then cover with a thin layer of gravel or sand (to punch the flooring into the tile holes, which tightens it up even more. You can sweep to the plastic top or leave a layer of sand cover or whatever bedding. As I said, we love it. Even when we had an injured 2000 lb horse on total stall confinement for about 6 weeks, that floor held up with no problem. Plus it drains well too, which keeps their hooves healthy.
Response by arlee at 2015-07-30 21:28:12
hemlock planks
Response by Dave Frieden iowa at 2015-07-30 22:42:23
Jerry I have built several horse barns over the years I always floor team stalls with bridge planks. I currently have a 7 stall barn with a cement 10 foot drive through aisle I'm not real good with electronic stuff but I could possibly send you pictures . my stalls measure 9 by 9 they work great for most stock but sometimes I have to put akick pole in for smaller ones to keep them from standing cross ways. Mine are on plank stringers filled with lime between them. That's the way I have it on all my barns the only thing I seem to change is how many stalls.good luck.
Response by MSILLS at 2015-07-31 17:39:18
I lay railroad ties gap 2 inches fill gaps with screenings. They are cheap and easy to replace when they stomp them down after 4-5 years
Response by kevin fort causeway at 2015-08-02 09:20:50
We have used asphalt pavement as base. Nice for grip and real cheap but doesn't broom clean if that is paramount.
Then lay timbers perpendicular to the length of the stalls. Lay a six by six at front of stall, 4 by 4 at middle, 2 by 12 at rear of stall. Next 3 by 12 timbers on the purlins you just layed down, and lag them together, and down into the pavement. So you get a few inches of fall front to back, There is air flow under the timbers, and drainage. And a floor with a little movement to it. Use lots of hydrated lime as part of your stall cleaning.

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