| Good Pasture = Dr. Green Establishing Pasture by Kevin H. Kline & Edward N. Ballard Whether you plan to improve an existing pasture or seed a new pasture, the first step is to test soil pH (acidity) and fertility. If the soil is not optimum in fertility and pH, any seeding has a low chance of success. The soil test recommendations will tell you how much lime and fertilizer your pasture needs. Recommended levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium will depend on both the soil test and the pasture's soil type. Ideal pasture plants are: productive over a long growing season, highly palatable, aggressive, and adapted to the climate characteristics of your area. Since no single forage plant meets all these criteria, select several species to provide a dependable feed supply. Most horse owners prefer permanent pastures for providing forage and exercise. A permanent pasture containing both grasses and legumes generally provides the highest yields of forage and the greatest variety in the diet. Legumes are plants that can convert nitrogen from the air into plant proteins; examples are alfalfa, clovers, and birdsfoot trefoil. Under most grazing conditions horses prefer grasses to legumes, although legumes often have superior nutrient quality. Pennsylvania studies showed that horses make satisfactory progress on all pasture mixtures, but prefer Kentucky bluegrass to taller grasses such as timothy and bromegrass, and prefer clovers to alfalfa and birdsfoot trefoil. Kentucky bluegrass has earned its reputation among horsemen for producing high quality turf that is smooth, tight, and resilient and that heals readily. Under most conditions Kentucky bluegrass is palatable to horses and, when properly fertilized, is high in both protein and minerals. It may be grazed closely or clipped to maintain high quality pasture. On the down side, bluegrass produces less forage per acre than do other grasses and its growth slows during hot weather. Tall-growing, cool-season grasses such as orchardgrass and bromegrass are more productive than bluegrass during hot weather. Horses do not discriminate against these grasses unless the grasses become too mature. Stock your pasture with enough horses and clip as necessary to prevent excess accumulation of plant growth in May and June. Clipping keeps the forage from becoming too mature and the sod from becoming clumpy. Orchardgrass and bromegrass will not tolerate close grazing, so always leave 3" to 4" of height. Many legumes that are adapted to an area's soil and moisture conditions may be used successfully in horse pasture. Since horses don't bloat, you needn't fear the use of alfalfa, ladino, or white clover. Red clover, however, occasionally causes excessive slobbering, and certain varieties of crimson clover cause photosensitization, or sunburn, in areas of white markings, especially around the face. Keep your seeding mixture simple. For best results use one or two grasses and one legume. Ask your county Extension agent for suggested seed mixtures for your region and soil type.pasture for at least seven days after application.
Kevin H. Kline is an Associate Professor of Animal Sciences, and Edward N. Ballard is an Animal Systems Extension Educator, both at the University of Illinois in Effingham. This article appeared in the Spring 2000 issue of Rural Heritage. |
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05 October 2005